Being from the Midwest, the weather is a natural topic of conversation for me. And so I've been watching the shift in conversations about weather here in Cuenca with some interest.
At first, people were coming to Cuenca for the warm, temperate weather. You'd go to an expat event and people would tell you about how they were escaping the horrible snows of Manitoba once and for all. They'd brag about never having to freeze their way through a Minnesota winter again, or tell cheery tales of getting away from Vermont once and for all. Sunny days were here and that was just the way they liked it.
Now people are coming to Cuenca because it's cold. Not ice cold, obviously, or the snow birds wouldn't have migrated here. But not 114 degrees in the shade, either.
With the record temperatures all over the US, expats are now checking to make sure Cuenca is going to be cold enough for them. People talk about how happy they are to be in Cuenca where you don't need to stand in your freezer to survive. They're gleeful at the idea of not needing air conditioning. And they really hope that things stay chilly here for the foreseeable future.
Ah, what a difference a year makes!
Monday, August 13, 2012
Monday, July 2, 2012
Expat Dilemmas: What To Do With All The Stuff
Stuff is a major problem in the expat life, caused in no small part by weight limits on your suitcases. This dilemma is front and center on my mind today for two reasons - I'm packing to go home for my sister's wedding and trying not to overload my suitcases, and I just finished reading J. Maarten Troost's excellent and funny book, The Sex Lives of Cannibals: Adrift in the Equatorial Pacific, which has several great chapters on the deprivation-overabundance extremes of international life.
In the States (and Canada and Europe, for that matter) you can get pretty much anything you want, anytime you want it. They don't have it in stock in your town? Amazon will make that right in about 48 hours.
In Ecuador, things that I want I can't have until I go back to the States for a visit. And maybe not even then. Period. That's just the way it is here. Yes, people have mentioned various schemes for getting monthly postings of goods from the States, but the cost makes it prohibitive for simple things like my favorite shampoo, my facewash of choice, my favorite teas, etc, etc, etc. In Cuenca, ask for these things and you get a shrugging, "No hay" (Don't have it) and they don't care either. There was no Haagen-Dazs, dill pickles, or tahini sauce at the local Supermaxi for close to three months, and anyone I asked about it was pretty darn indifferent.
And that's just the silly little things. Those things really don't matter. Not compared to say, a hernia sling, which retails for about $14.99 in the US and "No Hay" in Cuenca.
You learn to make do. You get used to going without. You catch yourself jerry-rigging the most ridiculous solutions to problems with little more than masking tape and hope.
Troost talked about the extremes of this on his island, where they got even more "No hay" than we do in Cuenca. At one point, there was "no hay" on beer for weeks, which in Cuenca would cause riots. A little power outage? No biggie. Water off in the building for the day? No heat or air conditioning the whole city? Whatever. Like Troost, I'm just used to that sort of stuff.
And then you go back to the States ... land of here, now, whatever you want, instant gratification.
Troost wrote this great scene about he and his girlfriend walking into a megamall in Washington D.C. and leaving without buying anything because all the choice was too overwhelming. I laughed out loud, because I've totally been there. Going from not being able to buy a pair of shoes in your size off the rack to a store full of your size on sale? You just walk around looking at things in wonder, like you've stumbled into some sort of alternative universe museum display.
You also do a lot of asking. Mostly you're asking "Why?" as in "Why would anyone want a ..." In the States there's a pressure to have ... more ... lots more ... and THIS .... this gadget is absolutely necessary ... but for someone who jumps out of that for a while and then comes back in, it starts to look a bit ridiculous.
I see this hit expats in Cuenca who've moved down with everything from their home in the States. After about six months, the local bare-bones way of getting things done starts to sink in. "Why do I have all these kitchen appliances?" is one I hear a lot. People realize they don't need a toaster, a toaster oven, a toasting rack for their regular oven, and a toasting rack for their microwave. They hear about somebody who came down here with one bag on their back and who toasts their bread on a fork over the flame on their gas stove. And they start thinking of the freedom that comes with not having to clean, store, and cart around all their stuff. And then, even if they go back to the States, they give up on a lot of their stuff ... which is why garage sales in Cuenca are the most delightful collections of oddities you've ever seen.
So where am I going with all this? Just to say that when you start thinking of life in make-do, fit-in-a-suitcase packages, most of your "essentials" are anything but ... and sooner or later, you're going to be looking around at a pile of necessities that are now just "things" to you, wondering, "What am I supposed to do with all this stuff?"
In the States (and Canada and Europe, for that matter) you can get pretty much anything you want, anytime you want it. They don't have it in stock in your town? Amazon will make that right in about 48 hours.
In Ecuador, things that I want I can't have until I go back to the States for a visit. And maybe not even then. Period. That's just the way it is here. Yes, people have mentioned various schemes for getting monthly postings of goods from the States, but the cost makes it prohibitive for simple things like my favorite shampoo, my facewash of choice, my favorite teas, etc, etc, etc. In Cuenca, ask for these things and you get a shrugging, "No hay" (Don't have it) and they don't care either. There was no Haagen-Dazs, dill pickles, or tahini sauce at the local Supermaxi for close to three months, and anyone I asked about it was pretty darn indifferent.
And that's just the silly little things. Those things really don't matter. Not compared to say, a hernia sling, which retails for about $14.99 in the US and "No Hay" in Cuenca.
You learn to make do. You get used to going without. You catch yourself jerry-rigging the most ridiculous solutions to problems with little more than masking tape and hope.
Troost talked about the extremes of this on his island, where they got even more "No hay" than we do in Cuenca. At one point, there was "no hay" on beer for weeks, which in Cuenca would cause riots. A little power outage? No biggie. Water off in the building for the day? No heat or air conditioning the whole city? Whatever. Like Troost, I'm just used to that sort of stuff.
And then you go back to the States ... land of here, now, whatever you want, instant gratification.
Troost wrote this great scene about he and his girlfriend walking into a megamall in Washington D.C. and leaving without buying anything because all the choice was too overwhelming. I laughed out loud, because I've totally been there. Going from not being able to buy a pair of shoes in your size off the rack to a store full of your size on sale? You just walk around looking at things in wonder, like you've stumbled into some sort of alternative universe museum display.
You also do a lot of asking. Mostly you're asking "Why?" as in "Why would anyone want a ..." In the States there's a pressure to have ... more ... lots more ... and THIS .... this gadget is absolutely necessary ... but for someone who jumps out of that for a while and then comes back in, it starts to look a bit ridiculous.
I see this hit expats in Cuenca who've moved down with everything from their home in the States. After about six months, the local bare-bones way of getting things done starts to sink in. "Why do I have all these kitchen appliances?" is one I hear a lot. People realize they don't need a toaster, a toaster oven, a toasting rack for their regular oven, and a toasting rack for their microwave. They hear about somebody who came down here with one bag on their back and who toasts their bread on a fork over the flame on their gas stove. And they start thinking of the freedom that comes with not having to clean, store, and cart around all their stuff. And then, even if they go back to the States, they give up on a lot of their stuff ... which is why garage sales in Cuenca are the most delightful collections of oddities you've ever seen.
So where am I going with all this? Just to say that when you start thinking of life in make-do, fit-in-a-suitcase packages, most of your "essentials" are anything but ... and sooner or later, you're going to be looking around at a pile of necessities that are now just "things" to you, wondering, "What am I supposed to do with all this stuff?"
Friday, June 29, 2012
Custom Leather Purses, Courtesy of my Cuenca Connections!
Having something made is always an adventure. You pay the money and just hope that everything turns out right. Fortunately, this time everything went smoothly!
A friend of mine in Cuenca is connected with a leather goods factory, and he's offered many times to let me make a purse with his team. I'd never taken him up on it, until now ...
It's not just the outside that looks good, either - the insides are high-quality cloth and beautifully done. So now I am plotting, plotting, plotting to have every other bag I've ever loved copied over.
A friend of mine in Cuenca is connected with a leather goods factory, and he's offered many times to let me make a purse with his team. I'd never taken him up on it, until now ...
These look even better in person!
My sister had a purse she wanted repaired or copied, if possible. It's the green one in the middle. Not only did Jaime fix it and make a great copy in the requested color (brown) he also gave me two color choices!
It's not just the outside that looks good, either - the insides are high-quality cloth and beautifully done. So now I am plotting, plotting, plotting to have every other bag I've ever loved copied over.
Monday, June 4, 2012
Cuenca's Artistic Construction Sites
Cuenca is under construction - they're doing $20 million in public parks, roads, and infrastructure improvements. Almost everywhere you look there is something torn up ... but not all of it is ugly.
This video of Cuenca's Parque de la Madre (Mother's Park) project shows how they managed to make a major eyesore into an attraction. It's currently a mud pit while they put in underground parking, but you'd never know it from all the art outside!
This video of Cuenca's Parque de la Madre (Mother's Park) project shows how they managed to make a major eyesore into an attraction. It's currently a mud pit while they put in underground parking, but you'd never know it from all the art outside!
A Road Trip Out of Ecuador
Taking a road trip in Ecuador is a bit of an adventure. The roads stink, for the most part. Highway maintenance is not really a "thing" here in the way it is an annual summer "thing" in the states. As a result, the further out of the city you get, the more pitted, potted, and worn through the roads get. Needless to say, 4-wheel drive is pretty popular. Almost every little car you see out on the broader roadways looks like its hanging on to the end of it's rope!
These are the kinds of reflections you have going the equivalent of 60 mph down the side of a mountain. Roads around Cuenca run crooked, winding here and there to go up and down the Andes. If I got car sick, any roadtrip here would be a nightmare.
As it stands, heavy spring rains have caused multiple landslides, blocking roads and rendering several impassable. Others are now one lane dirt tracks. Traffic alternatives the passage based on who's there first - there were no guards, crossing watchers, or traffic workers to be found. I didn't quite realize this initially - we'd left super early in the morning and I'd snoozed - but waking up on a dirt track hanging off the side of a mountain at a sharp angle will bring you back to the present!
The longer I was awake, the more confused I got. My destination was Peru, which is basically south of Cuenca. The route felt a little unorthodox - like I'd left Ogallala for North Platte on Highway 30, but gotten off on the Roscoe access road for the lake, hit the dam, made a right for Arthur and then decided to take backroads the rest of the way back to North Platte. The driver seemed fully confident of where he was going, however, otherwise how else could I explain the top speeds we were maintaining, even on blind curves?
All in all, the trip was nearly 8 hours of winding mountain roads, sudden braking events, and enthusiastically passing anything going less than 100 kph.
You tell me ... was it worth it?
These are the kinds of reflections you have going the equivalent of 60 mph down the side of a mountain. Roads around Cuenca run crooked, winding here and there to go up and down the Andes. If I got car sick, any roadtrip here would be a nightmare.
As it stands, heavy spring rains have caused multiple landslides, blocking roads and rendering several impassable. Others are now one lane dirt tracks. Traffic alternatives the passage based on who's there first - there were no guards, crossing watchers, or traffic workers to be found. I didn't quite realize this initially - we'd left super early in the morning and I'd snoozed - but waking up on a dirt track hanging off the side of a mountain at a sharp angle will bring you back to the present!
The longer I was awake, the more confused I got. My destination was Peru, which is basically south of Cuenca. The route felt a little unorthodox - like I'd left Ogallala for North Platte on Highway 30, but gotten off on the Roscoe access road for the lake, hit the dam, made a right for Arthur and then decided to take backroads the rest of the way back to North Platte. The driver seemed fully confident of where he was going, however, otherwise how else could I explain the top speeds we were maintaining, even on blind curves?
All in all, the trip was nearly 8 hours of winding mountain roads, sudden braking events, and enthusiastically passing anything going less than 100 kph.
You tell me ... was it worth it?
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| My breakfast cafe table in Peru |
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| The view off my front terrace in Peru - and yes, that hammock was well used! |
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Prices in Cuenca: 2012 Vice Squad Edition
In 2010, I posted up about the prices for cigarettes, alcohol, and recreational drugs in Cuenca. It's turned out to be one of my more popular posts, but with the passage of time my education has expanded and my pricing has gone outdated. So, new for 2012, here's the Vice Squad edition of Cuenca prices, moving from mild vices to more serious, um, adventure items:
- Coffee: The price of coffee in Cuenca has gone up slightly over the last two years, driven in part by poor local harvests. We had some damp years and one of the major suppliers moved into a new niche. There's also been an increase in artisanal and organic coffee in Cuenca, which naturally costs more. Expect a cup of joe to set you back at least 60 cents, with prices moving up past $2 in some of your nicer cafes.
- Pack of cigarettes: $1.85 plus whatever your local tienda adds as a mark up. $2 is common for a full pack of Lider, the dominant local brand. Also note that since 2010, Cuenca has passed a law against indoor smoking in restaurants and public places.
- Cocktails/Booze: Oddly, cocktails seem to be coming down a bit, depending where you are drinking them. Well drinks and glasses of wine start at $2 and move up from there. Do expect to pay $5+ for top shelf or cocktails at more upscale/gringo oriented establishments. Discount happy hours and bargain glasses are available, but you drink what you pay for!
- Beer: Beer is still in two sizes as reported before, with Club starting to edge Pilsner as the dominant local beer after some fun price wars in the supermarkets. At the store, you'll pay around 60 cents for a small beer, which will be $1 in cheap bars and $1.50 - $3 or more in upscale/gringo bars. For "grandes" your local tienda will hook you up for about $1, while the average going rate in the bars is $2 (more or less, depending where you are drinking). If you don't like the local stuff, Heineken is making some distribution inroads at bars, while SuperMaxi now has Budweiser.
- Condoms: $2.80 (ish) for three. These are sold at pharmacies and most supermarkets, though not always in sections one might think of as logical. Duo, Lifestyles and Trojans are the big brands. as the major foreign players. The day after pill equivalent is a local tea designed to start menstruation, and Ecuador leads South America in illegal abortions due to the strict official stance against it. Be careful out there!
- Sex stores: In 2010 I didn't know where these were. Now I do - hunt down "Sexy Locuras" on the street next to SuperMaxi El Vergel - it's the pink thing next to the soccer shop. Apparently a chain.
- Bribing the police: $10 and up, depending on the offense. I'm throwing this in there just in case you get up to something in the next section. Ask nicely, "Como podemos solucionar este?" (How can we solve this?) Traffic offenses will be the easiest to get out of (speeding, license issues) and remember, not everyone will take your money.
- Hookers: $6 and up. Pay more than $6 for your hooker. Ecuador's STD stats are frightening - that's all I'm saying. May be found near the Terminal Terrestre (main bus station) or in the brothel area (ask your taxi driver). Those near the bus station are frequently transvestites, and crime in that area remains high, especially late at night.
- Marijuana: Minor possession of marijuana is legal in Ecuador (one of two countries in South America with the loophole). You may score a hit of low grade stuff for $5 or $10, with pricing moving up sharply from there. I continue to be surprised at the number of retiree users in Ecuador. To buy, put it out there that you are interested and local expats will help you network in (but do realize not everyone here knows or is interested in helping you find pot, especially on a first meeting).
- Hallucinogenics: San Pedro cactus will set you back 25 cents to a dollar a chunk at almost every local market. Preparation instructions are on the Internet. Jungle trips for Iowaska adventures start at around $40 and go way up past $200 depending on the shaman and tour package you're doing with it.
- OTC medications: Codeine blend pills are readily available, and can be purchased individually or in packs from your local pharmacy, generally without a prescription. More intense stuff you'll need a prescription to get and Vicodin level stuff is very hard to source.
- Cocaine: $10 and up. I've heard mixed reviews of the effects at Cuenca's altitude - evidently it is not as good as lower elevations. I have no idea on the science on that, nor do I have any first hand experience. In terms of buying, no, I don't know anyone, and nor have I seen/heard much in the way of news on other drugs.
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Talking to the Taxis
One of the fun things I get to do almost everyday is talk to my taxi drivers. I run with a taxi crew I call "the grandpas" and they probably know me better than anyone else now!
Riding with the grandpas happened by accident. Moving into the place on El Batan, we noticed there was a taxi syndicate stand just up the street. I didn't use them at first, but then I started to appreciate the convenience of having taxis waiting for me whenever I wanted one without having to call for a ride. And so we began spending a lot of time (and money) together.
The grandpas got their name because the group is anchored by two drivers who are (approximately) 100 years old each. Riding with one of them terrifies me because he can't really see over the wheel and big cars seem to scare him. He is also cranky about people trying to give him anything other than exact change - but he's there in the afternoons when I need a ride, and that's just how it goes.
The other truly ancient driver is adorable, especially this season. Apparently they decided that since they have foreigners as regular riders, they should learn some English. He has mastered "Good Afternoon" which he tells me every morning on my way to getting a ride for my 9 am class.
It's not that no one in the group speaks English - some of them worked in the States, and many are much younger. Out of the 30+ cars in the syndicate, I know 6 of the drivers well enough to have their life stories. Chatting in traffic, you can pick up a lot - Bruno, for example, says he's relieved to have left his delivery route in NYC because taking bread to the Italian bakeries meant getting involved with the mafia and you know, those Russians are crazy.
We chat about visa issues, the weather, vacations, my students, their kids, and anything else that comes up. Many women riding alone in Cuenca complain that their taxi drivers hit on them - not my regular guys! They're married (one with 6 kids!) and besides, at 3 - 4 rides a day sometimes, they already know all about me and my boyfriend.
It is sometimes a check that I have to watch what I share - the taxi guys have lots of time on slow days to share stories. Everybody knows when I'm on vacation, doing exams for the school, upset about something at work, etc, etc - even the drivers I don't talk with regularly. On the other hand, I know quite a bit about their habits and lives, too, so I suppose it evens out in the grand scheme of things.
The other thing that evens out is the price I pay for taxis. As a regular, I pay the minimal fare for everything - something I'm reminded of when I dare to ride with another set of drivers. Cuenca has more than 100 taxi syndicates, some of which have over 70 cars. They can set their own rates for fares from their home base spot to the rest of the city, but good luck finding out what those rates are without being a regular rider, and good luck getting the best rates with a random cab hailed off the street. That's just the way it goes, and I'm lucky to have a set of good cabbies I can trust since I live in one part of the city and work in another.
So do come for a visit - fares are down for 2012 to Ecuador, and then you, too, can talk with my taxis.
Riding with the grandpas happened by accident. Moving into the place on El Batan, we noticed there was a taxi syndicate stand just up the street. I didn't use them at first, but then I started to appreciate the convenience of having taxis waiting for me whenever I wanted one without having to call for a ride. And so we began spending a lot of time (and money) together.
The grandpas got their name because the group is anchored by two drivers who are (approximately) 100 years old each. Riding with one of them terrifies me because he can't really see over the wheel and big cars seem to scare him. He is also cranky about people trying to give him anything other than exact change - but he's there in the afternoons when I need a ride, and that's just how it goes.
The other truly ancient driver is adorable, especially this season. Apparently they decided that since they have foreigners as regular riders, they should learn some English. He has mastered "Good Afternoon" which he tells me every morning on my way to getting a ride for my 9 am class.
It's not that no one in the group speaks English - some of them worked in the States, and many are much younger. Out of the 30+ cars in the syndicate, I know 6 of the drivers well enough to have their life stories. Chatting in traffic, you can pick up a lot - Bruno, for example, says he's relieved to have left his delivery route in NYC because taking bread to the Italian bakeries meant getting involved with the mafia and you know, those Russians are crazy.
We chat about visa issues, the weather, vacations, my students, their kids, and anything else that comes up. Many women riding alone in Cuenca complain that their taxi drivers hit on them - not my regular guys! They're married (one with 6 kids!) and besides, at 3 - 4 rides a day sometimes, they already know all about me and my boyfriend.
It is sometimes a check that I have to watch what I share - the taxi guys have lots of time on slow days to share stories. Everybody knows when I'm on vacation, doing exams for the school, upset about something at work, etc, etc - even the drivers I don't talk with regularly. On the other hand, I know quite a bit about their habits and lives, too, so I suppose it evens out in the grand scheme of things.
The other thing that evens out is the price I pay for taxis. As a regular, I pay the minimal fare for everything - something I'm reminded of when I dare to ride with another set of drivers. Cuenca has more than 100 taxi syndicates, some of which have over 70 cars. They can set their own rates for fares from their home base spot to the rest of the city, but good luck finding out what those rates are without being a regular rider, and good luck getting the best rates with a random cab hailed off the street. That's just the way it goes, and I'm lucky to have a set of good cabbies I can trust since I live in one part of the city and work in another.
So do come for a visit - fares are down for 2012 to Ecuador, and then you, too, can talk with my taxis.
Saturday, January 7, 2012
Fresh Thoughts For 2012
2011 came and went in a flash.
The last few months seemed like a race - each day was a marathon and I was not trained up to take it! After resolving that 2012 would be my year to really be healthy, I started the year with a hideous cold and lost voice, no doubt as things finally slowed down a bit and my body gave itself permission to be ill (I was not consulted). Still, better now and getting started on 2012 in force ... just a little late.
This week wraps up the writing class I have been teaching at the local university. You may remember that I thought this would be fun and interesting to do - and I can say that it has definitely been interesting and eye-opening. During a season when the university as a whole is campaigning for academic excellence, my class grades have enjoyed the active involvement of the administration, and the final projects were cancelled in favor of a multiple choice test. For a writing class. When I am back in NE in March, stop me and ask me more about that - it's a nice bit of local drama that helped eat all my spare time in December.
When the class is over, what will I do with my extra time? Write, naturally, but also explore. This summer will mark one of the major turnovers in Cuenca - we have multiple friends who are leaving and they are all bemoaning that they haven't seen enough of Ecuador. So we are resolving that we will cross more places off our list. Over the Christmas break, I got to see a number of the outlying towns, some major Inca ruins, and the coast of Ecuador (ocean at last!). This year, I want to see more of the coast and some of the museums here in the city, since the exhibits rotate and I should probably do more than just ignore them.
Packing in touristic activities locally will help warm me up for the year as a whole - I have five big trips planned and am sure some little ones will get tucked in there, too. I laugh that I'm approaching them as "travel at last!" trips - because you know I just haven't done any traveling in the last few years :-)
Here's to a new year, starting late for me but certainly underway. How's your new year going?
The last few months seemed like a race - each day was a marathon and I was not trained up to take it! After resolving that 2012 would be my year to really be healthy, I started the year with a hideous cold and lost voice, no doubt as things finally slowed down a bit and my body gave itself permission to be ill (I was not consulted). Still, better now and getting started on 2012 in force ... just a little late.
This week wraps up the writing class I have been teaching at the local university. You may remember that I thought this would be fun and interesting to do - and I can say that it has definitely been interesting and eye-opening. During a season when the university as a whole is campaigning for academic excellence, my class grades have enjoyed the active involvement of the administration, and the final projects were cancelled in favor of a multiple choice test. For a writing class. When I am back in NE in March, stop me and ask me more about that - it's a nice bit of local drama that helped eat all my spare time in December.
When the class is over, what will I do with my extra time? Write, naturally, but also explore. This summer will mark one of the major turnovers in Cuenca - we have multiple friends who are leaving and they are all bemoaning that they haven't seen enough of Ecuador. So we are resolving that we will cross more places off our list. Over the Christmas break, I got to see a number of the outlying towns, some major Inca ruins, and the coast of Ecuador (ocean at last!). This year, I want to see more of the coast and some of the museums here in the city, since the exhibits rotate and I should probably do more than just ignore them.
Packing in touristic activities locally will help warm me up for the year as a whole - I have five big trips planned and am sure some little ones will get tucked in there, too. I laugh that I'm approaching them as "travel at last!" trips - because you know I just haven't done any traveling in the last few years :-)
Here's to a new year, starting late for me but certainly underway. How's your new year going?
Tuesday, October 11, 2011
A Certain Comfort In Routines
I just settled in to my "Tuesday Night" spot, and I had to laugh at myself, because not only I tell a friend to find me at "the usual place" but I also noticeably relaxed once I was settled in.
Since when am I a creature of habit? (Staff at the Kookaburra, don't answer that!)
What was it, three days ago and I was whining about the status of my adventure, and now I am enjoying my routine? We humans are nothing if not contradictions, apparently.
Still, there are cafes and corners all over the world that I think of as mine. A visit back to any one of my old haunts brings the same sense of relaxation, even after years. I'm nostalgic for the tapas bar on the square in Alcala, 36th & Hennepin's Dunn Brother's Coffee, the outside balcony at Shanghai's Porterman Hotel, the dive-y Indian place on the first floor of Tennoji Station, Vietnamese Frog in Shinsaibashi, Tin's Hall. I randomly crave Burma SuperStar in San Francisco and Lincoln's Lamar's Donuts. It's inexplicable, but all these scattered threads are pieces of me or happy memories in one form or another.
Readers, how about you? What are your places?
Since when am I a creature of habit? (Staff at the Kookaburra, don't answer that!)
What was it, three days ago and I was whining about the status of my adventure, and now I am enjoying my routine? We humans are nothing if not contradictions, apparently.
Still, there are cafes and corners all over the world that I think of as mine. A visit back to any one of my old haunts brings the same sense of relaxation, even after years. I'm nostalgic for the tapas bar on the square in Alcala, 36th & Hennepin's Dunn Brother's Coffee, the outside balcony at Shanghai's Porterman Hotel, the dive-y Indian place on the first floor of Tennoji Station, Vietnamese Frog in Shinsaibashi, Tin's Hall. I randomly crave Burma SuperStar in San Francisco and Lincoln's Lamar's Donuts. It's inexplicable, but all these scattered threads are pieces of me or happy memories in one form or another.
Readers, how about you? What are your places?
Friday, October 7, 2011
Adventure, Humpf.
It's 2 am and I have a splitting headache. I spent the earlier part of my evening being quite ill from something I ate, and now I'm sitting up thinking about Tim Mills and China.
For those of you new to my backstory, I spent two years in Asia just after I graduated from college. Ask me about it now and I'll tell you I loved it, China significantly more than Japan. In my biggest "that's it, I've had it" moments, the next step is usually running off back to Shanghai. It was an adventure that truly reshaped my internal landscape, and one I'm never going to forget.
Tim Mills comes into the story as a tangent. My Tim Mills connection is Spain, where he and I studied abroad way back in the dark ages before the Euro. We kept in touch - still do - since he is one of the most grounded and level-headed people I know.
One January I called him up and was just venting. I'd come back from Christmas to discover that my boss had fought with the school where I taught, so now I had no job. My Polish boyfriend had announced he was moving back to Poland. There was snow, crappy job interviews, and other various life annoyances. A perfect situation for a pity party, until Tim Mills cut me off.
"You moved to China to have an adventure, right?"
"Well, yeah."
"Who said it had to be fun?"
That made me laugh and snapped me out of it the worst of the woe-is-me mindset I'd slipped into. Good, bad, ugly and incomprehensible, I was definitely having an adventure in China.
What, then, does this have to do with Cuenca? As you may have guessed, I've been creeping into the woe-is-me mindset again. I went took a wonderful, highly enjoyable vacation back to the States at the end of August, and since I've come back to Cuenca its been a bit of one thing after another. Friends have announced they are leaving, work has been overwhelming, and as the locals will testify, for the past couple of week the weather has been lousy. Woe, woe, mope, woe.
I've got to snap out of it.
I'm in the middle of an adventure, and one that's going to close out the year full of new experiences. Here's what's on tap:
For those of you new to my backstory, I spent two years in Asia just after I graduated from college. Ask me about it now and I'll tell you I loved it, China significantly more than Japan. In my biggest "that's it, I've had it" moments, the next step is usually running off back to Shanghai. It was an adventure that truly reshaped my internal landscape, and one I'm never going to forget.
Tim Mills comes into the story as a tangent. My Tim Mills connection is Spain, where he and I studied abroad way back in the dark ages before the Euro. We kept in touch - still do - since he is one of the most grounded and level-headed people I know.
One January I called him up and was just venting. I'd come back from Christmas to discover that my boss had fought with the school where I taught, so now I had no job. My Polish boyfriend had announced he was moving back to Poland. There was snow, crappy job interviews, and other various life annoyances. A perfect situation for a pity party, until Tim Mills cut me off.
"You moved to China to have an adventure, right?"
"Well, yeah."
"Who said it had to be fun?"
That made me laugh and snapped me out of it the worst of the woe-is-me mindset I'd slipped into. Good, bad, ugly and incomprehensible, I was definitely having an adventure in China.
What, then, does this have to do with Cuenca? As you may have guessed, I've been creeping into the woe-is-me mindset again. I went took a wonderful, highly enjoyable vacation back to the States at the end of August, and since I've come back to Cuenca its been a bit of one thing after another. Friends have announced they are leaving, work has been overwhelming, and as the locals will testify, for the past couple of week the weather has been lousy. Woe, woe, mope, woe.
I've got to snap out of it.
I'm in the middle of an adventure, and one that's going to close out the year full of new experiences. Here's what's on tap:
- Classes: I'm teaching a business writing course, and for a semester final my students are going to be building Facebook pages in English for local businesses. How fun will that be? I'm excited for it, even if I'm a bit suspicious about the quality of my students after one of them asked me today if we could get rid of Friday classes since they are "inconvenient" to attend.
- Writing: At the end of October I'm going to the AWAI Bootcamp, a major copywriting conference and job fair event. I've wanted to go for two years now, so I am super psyched up about attending. I'm also terrified - more than 300 of my peers will be there and the speakers are some of my copywriting inspirations. In the flesh. Eek!
- Christmas & New Years: In a major change from the norm, I won't be home for Christmas (boo!) because my boyfriend's parents are coming to Cuenca and then taking us to the beach. This is a yay. I think. Maybe? It will definitely be an adventure!
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Ecuador's Sleepy Vacation Season
Europeans aren't the only ones who love a good long vacation in August. Ecuadorians are also big fans of taking a few weeks off in the month of August. School is out of session, so most families are itching for the chance to get away, and the business culture seems to support the idea of taking off for an annual big vacation.
Where do Ecuadorians go on vacation? It depends. Many who have family in the States and the ability to get a US visa (this is getting increasingly difficult) head for the States. The big "family visit" destinations are to the Ecuadorian communities in New York, Chicago, and Miami. However, I feel a bit sorry for my students heading toward the States - Cuenca's summer months have been unseasonably cold and wet, with July being absolutely miserable. Moving from 40 degrees and rainy to 100+ degrees in a muggy urban environment? Yuck, even if the shopping is better.
Other popular vacation destinations are the beaches. Manabi, Montanita, and Salinas all get a certain amount of vacationers in August, but Caribbean, Columbian, and Peruvian beaches are considered to be more of a getaway. I don't know what the travel advertisers in Punta Cana did to secure the loyalty of the Ecuadorian public, but hitting resorts in this Dominican Republic beach zone is considered to be a top vacation choice.
Europe and Asia don't seem to be on the travel radar except for those at the very top end of the financial scale. Tickets are just flat-out expensive to get from here to there, making destinations closer to home more popular. Ecuadorians seem to be pretty big fans of domestic travel, showing a lot of love for their own jungle and volcano attractions.
Still, with a significant proportion of the population on vacation, Cuenca is a sleepy little town. When people here are on vacation, they don't answer their phone or check their email. Employees report that their bosses are on vacation as though that's a perfectly acceptable explanation for why you can't have what you need until the 1st of September - and here, that's just the way it goes.
This travel bug is a bit contagious. A large number of my friends here are taking trips back to the states throughout August and early September, channeling the Ecuadorian way. It's all about shopping, visiting family, and spending one or two days on a beach. In the meantime, Ecuador's main streets seem a bit depopulated and extra quiet as everyone settles in to enjoy the sleepy vacation season.
Where do Ecuadorians go on vacation? It depends. Many who have family in the States and the ability to get a US visa (this is getting increasingly difficult) head for the States. The big "family visit" destinations are to the Ecuadorian communities in New York, Chicago, and Miami. However, I feel a bit sorry for my students heading toward the States - Cuenca's summer months have been unseasonably cold and wet, with July being absolutely miserable. Moving from 40 degrees and rainy to 100+ degrees in a muggy urban environment? Yuck, even if the shopping is better.
Other popular vacation destinations are the beaches. Manabi, Montanita, and Salinas all get a certain amount of vacationers in August, but Caribbean, Columbian, and Peruvian beaches are considered to be more of a getaway. I don't know what the travel advertisers in Punta Cana did to secure the loyalty of the Ecuadorian public, but hitting resorts in this Dominican Republic beach zone is considered to be a top vacation choice.
Europe and Asia don't seem to be on the travel radar except for those at the very top end of the financial scale. Tickets are just flat-out expensive to get from here to there, making destinations closer to home more popular. Ecuadorians seem to be pretty big fans of domestic travel, showing a lot of love for their own jungle and volcano attractions.
Still, with a significant proportion of the population on vacation, Cuenca is a sleepy little town. When people here are on vacation, they don't answer their phone or check their email. Employees report that their bosses are on vacation as though that's a perfectly acceptable explanation for why you can't have what you need until the 1st of September - and here, that's just the way it goes.
This travel bug is a bit contagious. A large number of my friends here are taking trips back to the states throughout August and early September, channeling the Ecuadorian way. It's all about shopping, visiting family, and spending one or two days on a beach. In the meantime, Ecuador's main streets seem a bit depopulated and extra quiet as everyone settles in to enjoy the sleepy vacation season.
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Ecuador's President Renamed A Series Of Unprintable Words On Wikipedia
Ecuador's President hasn't been making many friends within the media community lately, to the point that Anonymous currently has the country under attack. One of the crowning jewels showed up this morning on Wikipedia.
I can't print it. I won't even put up a picture. Just read the new name for Rafeal Correa on Wikipedia. If your version has no obscenities used as middle and last names under "Spanish naming conventions", then it's been caught. If not, well, this is a gem that insults both Correa and his mother.
I'm sharing because in the midst off all the political trash talking going on about the situation in the US, it really doesn't compare to what happens on the political scene. Also, can you imagine if this happened in the States?
I can't print it. I won't even put up a picture. Just read the new name for Rafeal Correa on Wikipedia. If your version has no obscenities used as middle and last names under "Spanish naming conventions", then it's been caught. If not, well, this is a gem that insults both Correa and his mother.
I'm sharing because in the midst off all the political trash talking going on about the situation in the US, it really doesn't compare to what happens on the political scene. Also, can you imagine if this happened in the States?
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
What Music Ecuadorian Kids Listen To These Days
One of the fun things about working with high school aged Ecuadorians is getting glimpses into the forces that are influencing them. The other day we had some work time in class and one of the kids asked if we could put on some music. I told them yes, but I didn't have any. Not to worry - Ecuador is one of the only countries I've lived in where people actually use the MP3 player feature on their phones. As the class shared the favorite pieces from their collections, I got to hear:
- Katy Perry - Firework & Teenage Dream
- Queen - We Are The Champions
- Lady Gaga - Poker Face
- The Village People - Y.M.C.A. (Although when I said, oh how appropriate since we are studying hotels, they were shocked. They didn't realize that a YMCA is a place you can stay. They thought it was a resort or disco).
- Poison - Every Rose Has Its Thorn
- Taylor Swift - Romeo
- Kenny Loggins - Highway To The Danger Zone
- The Cranberries - Zombie
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Cuenca: A Home For America's Economic Refugees?
Americans visiting Cuenca used to talk about the climate, the culture, and the opportunities for new businesses in the city. Increasingly, they are talking about economics. Not local economics, but American economics. The idea is that they want to get out while the getting's good, and want to know if Cuenca's the right place to ride out America's imminent financial doom.
I've had a surprising number of conversations lately that focus on getting out of the US dollar and escaping the US economy. Many of the people quizzing me about my international life aren't planning to join me in the Freelance Kingdom - they are really just running. Running from the idea of retiring in debt, running from the idea of long-term unemployment, and running from the idea of losing it all, once and for all.
To be honest, these people inspire two emotions in me: Fear and Pity. The fear is rather contagious - the latest crew of American arrivals in Cuenca seem to be genuinely afraid of just about everything. Talk to them for a while and you, too, will start to wonder if tomorrow you will wake up to the wreckage of a midnight Armageddon. On the other hand, I really pity some of these people, because in their fearful mindset, they are shortening their lives by stressing themselves out something ridiculous.
It's not to say that all of their fears are groundless, or that Cuenca is necessarily a poor choice for waiting out the Greater Depression. Last time I checked, yes, the US economy still stank, and yes, the cost of living in Cuenca is significantly lower than a similar US lifestyle. However, cheaper does not always mean better for every situation, and cost of living isn't the only metric to use.
Cuenca's culture is very different from that of the United States. It can be warm and welcoming, but it can also seem very closed off due to a strong emphasis on family ties and last names. You need to speak Spanish or you will be stuck in the gringo community. The gringo community is okay, but it can seem to be very us vs. them for new arrivals vs. old Cuenca hands. Expect to make acquaintances readily and friends more slowly.
Many of the systems that people are used to in the US don't exist here. Yes, many economic refugees want to "leave America behind" in theory, but in practice they still expect there to be functional administrative systems that respond to their needs and complaints. Not so in Cuenca - most people here fend for themselves, and the complaints department is permanently closed. Noise complaints can be directed straight to your neighbor, thank you very much, and if you don't like your cable service, join the club. This "we don't care" attitude in service areas is a sharp departure from the US where sales clerks and phone agents jump to serve "the customer who is always right". After all, if you don't like it, you'll blog, tweet, and post youtube videos about it.
Only not in Cuenca. The technology barrier is high - only about 28% of Ecuadorians regularly access the web (meaning once a week or more) and high speed connections like those in the States just haven't arrived yet. Facebook has caught on pretty strongly, but blogs and Twitter are still marginal. Websites for businesses vary in quality. If you want information, word of mouth, newspaper, and radio are the top choices. Or picking up the phone and calling directly, something many Americans consider archaic.
So there are some pretty significant adjustments, and the economics aren't all fabulous. Most Americans in Cuenca aren't making a local income - it's all dependent on what they have going for them from the States. English teaching might net $250 - $500 per month as supplemental income, and there are a few restaurants owned by gringos, but other economic opportunities are limited. People who think they will come down and work for a local are sadly misguided - there are plenty of unemployed locals for local jobs!
And that's my two cents on the matter for the moment. Yes, Cuenca can be wonderful, and if you know what you're getting into, it might work for you as a new home or economic refuge. However, it's not mini-America, nor is it Mexico, and economic refugees looking for either had better look somewhere else!
I've had a surprising number of conversations lately that focus on getting out of the US dollar and escaping the US economy. Many of the people quizzing me about my international life aren't planning to join me in the Freelance Kingdom - they are really just running. Running from the idea of retiring in debt, running from the idea of long-term unemployment, and running from the idea of losing it all, once and for all.
To be honest, these people inspire two emotions in me: Fear and Pity. The fear is rather contagious - the latest crew of American arrivals in Cuenca seem to be genuinely afraid of just about everything. Talk to them for a while and you, too, will start to wonder if tomorrow you will wake up to the wreckage of a midnight Armageddon. On the other hand, I really pity some of these people, because in their fearful mindset, they are shortening their lives by stressing themselves out something ridiculous.
It's not to say that all of their fears are groundless, or that Cuenca is necessarily a poor choice for waiting out the Greater Depression. Last time I checked, yes, the US economy still stank, and yes, the cost of living in Cuenca is significantly lower than a similar US lifestyle. However, cheaper does not always mean better for every situation, and cost of living isn't the only metric to use.
Cuenca's culture is very different from that of the United States. It can be warm and welcoming, but it can also seem very closed off due to a strong emphasis on family ties and last names. You need to speak Spanish or you will be stuck in the gringo community. The gringo community is okay, but it can seem to be very us vs. them for new arrivals vs. old Cuenca hands. Expect to make acquaintances readily and friends more slowly.
Many of the systems that people are used to in the US don't exist here. Yes, many economic refugees want to "leave America behind" in theory, but in practice they still expect there to be functional administrative systems that respond to their needs and complaints. Not so in Cuenca - most people here fend for themselves, and the complaints department is permanently closed. Noise complaints can be directed straight to your neighbor, thank you very much, and if you don't like your cable service, join the club. This "we don't care" attitude in service areas is a sharp departure from the US where sales clerks and phone agents jump to serve "the customer who is always right". After all, if you don't like it, you'll blog, tweet, and post youtube videos about it.
Only not in Cuenca. The technology barrier is high - only about 28% of Ecuadorians regularly access the web (meaning once a week or more) and high speed connections like those in the States just haven't arrived yet. Facebook has caught on pretty strongly, but blogs and Twitter are still marginal. Websites for businesses vary in quality. If you want information, word of mouth, newspaper, and radio are the top choices. Or picking up the phone and calling directly, something many Americans consider archaic.
So there are some pretty significant adjustments, and the economics aren't all fabulous. Most Americans in Cuenca aren't making a local income - it's all dependent on what they have going for them from the States. English teaching might net $250 - $500 per month as supplemental income, and there are a few restaurants owned by gringos, but other economic opportunities are limited. People who think they will come down and work for a local are sadly misguided - there are plenty of unemployed locals for local jobs!
And that's my two cents on the matter for the moment. Yes, Cuenca can be wonderful, and if you know what you're getting into, it might work for you as a new home or economic refuge. However, it's not mini-America, nor is it Mexico, and economic refugees looking for either had better look somewhere else!
Monday, July 4, 2011
Freedom Is A State Of Mind
Independence Day overseas is always an adventure, because you know its supposed to be a holiday, but nobody else is taking the day off. While my family and friends back in the States are enjoying the sunny weather and a three day weekend, Cuencanos are enjoying the fifth straight hour of pouring rain and another workday. Yee-haw!
The question does sometimes come up as to whether I worry about my freedom living overseas. The short answer is no, not really. America isn't the only place you can live free and happy ... and to me, attaching freedom to a place diminishes the concept.
Freedom isn't a concept that can be fenced by borders. It's not even really a concept that can be fenced by facts. Was I more free in America, where an organized government efficiently collected taxes, monitored citizen activities, and regulated the snot out of being a small business owner? Or am I more free in Cuenca, where a highly inefficient government doesn't provide much more than basic services and the police can be readily bribed? (In a recent lesson on crime vocabulary, I mentioned a friend paying the police $10 to get out of a ticket. My students told me he overpaid - it should have been $5. "You foreigners run up the price of everything," harrumphed one of them, implying "my people" are ruining their freedom to drive like maniacs.)
Moving from the cops back to government, was I more free in America or when I was living in China? I didn't speak the language well and had no knowledge of the local laws. I know I got tons of exceptions from locals because they knew I didn't get it and it wasn't worth it to them to make an issue out of it ... but in America, there are no exceptions for me. If I speed, fail to register my car properly, don't follow my community covenant for recycling, or a hundred other small things, I'm in trouble.
So what is my freedom, really? Were my forefathers fighting for the right to watch reality TV on high-speed Internet connections in McMansions? I like to think they were fighting for the right to live on their own terms - the right to choose their futures, govern their destinies, and take their lives where the path led. It's not a place - it's a concept, a state of mind. Rainy skies, no fireworks, and miles from home, that's what I celebrate as my Independence Day.
The question does sometimes come up as to whether I worry about my freedom living overseas. The short answer is no, not really. America isn't the only place you can live free and happy ... and to me, attaching freedom to a place diminishes the concept.
Freedom isn't a concept that can be fenced by borders. It's not even really a concept that can be fenced by facts. Was I more free in America, where an organized government efficiently collected taxes, monitored citizen activities, and regulated the snot out of being a small business owner? Or am I more free in Cuenca, where a highly inefficient government doesn't provide much more than basic services and the police can be readily bribed? (In a recent lesson on crime vocabulary, I mentioned a friend paying the police $10 to get out of a ticket. My students told me he overpaid - it should have been $5. "You foreigners run up the price of everything," harrumphed one of them, implying "my people" are ruining their freedom to drive like maniacs.)
Moving from the cops back to government, was I more free in America or when I was living in China? I didn't speak the language well and had no knowledge of the local laws. I know I got tons of exceptions from locals because they knew I didn't get it and it wasn't worth it to them to make an issue out of it ... but in America, there are no exceptions for me. If I speed, fail to register my car properly, don't follow my community covenant for recycling, or a hundred other small things, I'm in trouble.
So what is my freedom, really? Were my forefathers fighting for the right to watch reality TV on high-speed Internet connections in McMansions? I like to think they were fighting for the right to live on their own terms - the right to choose their futures, govern their destinies, and take their lives where the path led. It's not a place - it's a concept, a state of mind. Rainy skies, no fireworks, and miles from home, that's what I celebrate as my Independence Day.
Now We're Mobile
Hey, quick administrative note -- I've set up to optimize the viewing of the blog on your favorite mobile device. This should make it easy for iPad owners, iPhones, and other "smart" mobile devices to visit me without a mega-jumble on the screen.
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
Readjusting To Life In Cuenca
After three weeks in the States, returning to Cuenca has been interesting. I loved, loved, loved being in America with the whole country being on the cusp of summer. Here we are on the cusp of what passes for winter, and the return from a land in bloom to a land where that's just not the season has been interesting.
Of course, the weather isn't the only difference between Cuenca and the States. One of my friends here asked me to do a comparison, so I spent a lot of my time in the States (since I had a lot of time in the car between North Carolina and Nebraska) reflecting on that. The differences jumped out from all sides, and not all of them bear repeating, but here are a few that have hit me going both ways.
Of course, the weather isn't the only difference between Cuenca and the States. One of my friends here asked me to do a comparison, so I spent a lot of my time in the States (since I had a lot of time in the car between North Carolina and Nebraska) reflecting on that. The differences jumped out from all sides, and not all of them bear repeating, but here are a few that have hit me going both ways.
- The cheek kiss thing: When I got to the States, I was totally set to kiss everyone on the cheek because that is just the Ecuadorian way. It's kind of hard to shut off once you get in the habit. Now that I'm back, it's hard to turn back on. I once again feel like people are invading my space when they lean in for a kiss, but based on the weirdness that ensues when you try to shake hands with someone trying to kiss you, I'll need to get over that fast.
- Punctuality: I had to get back in the groove of leaving for things on time in the States. Not so here in EC. Except for my classes, we're back in the land of approximates - around 2, sometime this evening. I kind of enjoyed the more scheduled life - I've apparently missed things that smack of routine. Cuenca's chaos is quaint, but not always conducive to getting things done.
- Shopping variety: I'll be honest, I just about cried when I walked into the Trader Joe's in Lincoln, NE. It's not the biggest, it's not the best ... but it has so much variety that is flat out lacking here. You go to the supermarket and it's pretty much this or that, and having been to the supermarket three times in the last three days, it's frustrating. There may be six brands, but there aren't six kinds. In the US there is more variety of kinds of things to buy, both in the food aisles and on the shelves in retail stores. If I want to buy only modal cotton clothes in the States, I can do it. If I want to do that in EC, well, it's this shirt or that shirt, take it or leave it, plus 22% tax on imported clothes.
- Height: In the US I'm average. Here I'm a giant, as being away and then back reminded me.
- Pricing: You know, a lot of people go on and on about the cheapness of Cuenca, and so I was expecting more sticker shock being in the States. The biggest was the $65 taxi I took in Chicago - here taxi rides average $2, and the airport might be a $5-$10 ride in Quito for about an equal distance. Yet on the other hand there were a lot of elements in the States that were very affordable compared to Cuenca. Textiles of all kinds were very affordable in the States (no $5 for 6 pairs of Hanes socks here!) and a decent meal out at night was still $20+ per person just like it is here. Hotels in Cuenca are cheaper, and gas is cheaper because of the government subsidies. Yet in other areas of life it's not that different, and quality/selection + 12% Cuenca sales tax definitely are pricing factors to consider, too.
Monday, May 2, 2011
Who's Dead?
Last night we watched the news that Osama bin Laden was dead. So did the rest of the world, if the Internet speed was any indication. It was an interesting moment, watching the nation celebrate without us expats at their side. I think my patriotism must be a bit lacking, too, because watching everybody go nuts in the streets my main thought was, "Sheesh, don't these people have to work tomorrow?" What can I say? It was after midnight, I was tired, and it's been a long ride finding Mr. Needle-in-a-Haystack.
When I woke up this morning, the President was dead.
At not yet 7 am, the phone rang. The frantic caller on the other end has no Internet at home and was desperate for an Internet touch-base. "Obama has been shot and killed!"
"No, it was Osama."
"They told me it was Obama! It just happened last night, you have to look."
"No, it was Osama."
"My girlfriend said Obama is dead! It's breaking news."
"No, no, no. Not Obama. OSAMA. OSAMA is dead."
"Are you sure?"
Massive growl of frustration. Power up computer. Hit the Internet. "Yes, I'm sure. Osama is dead, not Obama."
"Oh, well, thanks," Click.
Guess who was extra early to school today? GRRRRRRRrrrrrr.... OSAMA is dead!
When I woke up this morning, the President was dead.
At not yet 7 am, the phone rang. The frantic caller on the other end has no Internet at home and was desperate for an Internet touch-base. "Obama has been shot and killed!"
"No, it was Osama."
"They told me it was Obama! It just happened last night, you have to look."
"No, it was Osama."
"My girlfriend said Obama is dead! It's breaking news."
"No, no, no. Not Obama. OSAMA. OSAMA is dead."
"Are you sure?"
Massive growl of frustration. Power up computer. Hit the Internet. "Yes, I'm sure. Osama is dead, not Obama."
"Oh, well, thanks," Click.
Guess who was extra early to school today? GRRRRRRRrrrrrr.... OSAMA is dead!
Saturday, April 23, 2011
Waiting For A Taste Of Easter
In about an hour, I'll know if I get to taste Easter this year, or if I've blown it entirely.
Everyone has their own thing that means Easter. Not in the grander meaning-of-the-holiday sense, but in the smaller, personal family sense. Easter for some is hiding eggs under bushes and for others it's big chocolate bunny-filled baskets. Here in Ecuador, Easter is associated with a very particular kind of soup that has a ridiculous number of ingredients, and back in Nebraska I kind of associate Easter with banana bread.
Laugh now, but then think about this: If Easter was a holiday you put in your mouth, what would it taste like to you?
I can't make a sunrise service in the Brule park in Ecuador. I can't pretend not to be too old to hunt eggs in my grandmother's yard - not least because Easter egg hunting is not the Ecuadorian way. I can't fight my cousins for my mom's mashed potatoes, and I won't be working my way methodically though a dessert table that rivals a bakery.
What I'm left with is banana bread. Specifically, my aunts, but since I didn't get the spike of Easter lonely till about 10:30 tonight I had to cheat and get a recipe off the Internet instead of calling her. It's from Australia and it has lots of sugar and butter in it, and I already had the bananas.
My history as a chef is not a shining beacon of excellence. I've learned the hard way about things like not mixing cinnamon with paprika, and that following the instructions is actually kind of important. Even with the best of intentions I've been known to completely screw up basic meals and side dishes, to the point where I'm a bit intimidated by my boyfriend's request for deviled eggs.
Yet I meticulously chopped my own walnuts to put in the bread, and creamed my sugar into the butter with gusto. No proper mixing bowl meant the thing got stirred up in a casserole pan, but it was indeed smooth as per the instructions. I dutifully buttered and floured my baking pan, and pre-heated the countertop convection oven. I am very proud of myself at the moment, but still fearful that something will be all wrong, like my oln friend the high altitude or something about the kind of bananas we have hear.
Still 46 minutes to go ... but the smell is right. Naturally it needs to be mixed with an undertone of baked ham and the chatter of family, but sweet banana will have to do. Let's all hope this tastes amazing ... and HAPPY EASTER to you all.
Everyone has their own thing that means Easter. Not in the grander meaning-of-the-holiday sense, but in the smaller, personal family sense. Easter for some is hiding eggs under bushes and for others it's big chocolate bunny-filled baskets. Here in Ecuador, Easter is associated with a very particular kind of soup that has a ridiculous number of ingredients, and back in Nebraska I kind of associate Easter with banana bread.
Laugh now, but then think about this: If Easter was a holiday you put in your mouth, what would it taste like to you?
I can't make a sunrise service in the Brule park in Ecuador. I can't pretend not to be too old to hunt eggs in my grandmother's yard - not least because Easter egg hunting is not the Ecuadorian way. I can't fight my cousins for my mom's mashed potatoes, and I won't be working my way methodically though a dessert table that rivals a bakery.
What I'm left with is banana bread. Specifically, my aunts, but since I didn't get the spike of Easter lonely till about 10:30 tonight I had to cheat and get a recipe off the Internet instead of calling her. It's from Australia and it has lots of sugar and butter in it, and I already had the bananas.
My history as a chef is not a shining beacon of excellence. I've learned the hard way about things like not mixing cinnamon with paprika, and that following the instructions is actually kind of important. Even with the best of intentions I've been known to completely screw up basic meals and side dishes, to the point where I'm a bit intimidated by my boyfriend's request for deviled eggs.
Yet I meticulously chopped my own walnuts to put in the bread, and creamed my sugar into the butter with gusto. No proper mixing bowl meant the thing got stirred up in a casserole pan, but it was indeed smooth as per the instructions. I dutifully buttered and floured my baking pan, and pre-heated the countertop convection oven. I am very proud of myself at the moment, but still fearful that something will be all wrong, like my oln friend the high altitude or something about the kind of bananas we have hear.
Still 46 minutes to go ... but the smell is right. Naturally it needs to be mixed with an undertone of baked ham and the chatter of family, but sweet banana will have to do. Let's all hope this tastes amazing ... and HAPPY EASTER to you all.
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Happy Teacher's Day ... Who Are You?
Today I had a nice surprise when I went to my school - it's Teacher's Day in Ecuador. I received a beautiful rose from the Abraham Lincoln school and many well-wishes and hugs from my students. My current students were somewhat obligated to acknowledge the holiday, but the past students who made a point to come give me a kiss on the cheek and a hug were especially precious.
Now if only I could remember who they all were ....
Between my own classes, substituting for other teachers, being around the school, etc, etc, I have met well over a hundred dedicated English students. Some of them are unforgettable, but others fade into namelessness when the new cycle starts (12 week class cycles). I recognize their faces as having been in my class, but I can't quite put a name on the face.
The worst is when I see the students out and about and nowhere near the school, so my brain can't sort them by their class time or level. I met a student on the bridge to Solano today coming back from her high school, and though we had a nice conversation, I still don't know if it was Jessica or Veronica. I'm pretty sure she's Jessica. I think. Definitely a Saturday morning student ...
Still, even if I don't always have a ready name to put to the face, it is nice to be able to recognize people on the streets of Cuenca who are not my fellow foreigners. This is a definite benefit of teaching - you have a recognized connection to the society, and get to feel more at home in the culture. Also, the students definitely know you, so it makes for those nice moments that you would have in a small neighborhood, stopping and chatting, even in the middle of Cuenca's bustling byways.
Happy Teacher's Day, indeed!
Now if only I could remember who they all were ....
Between my own classes, substituting for other teachers, being around the school, etc, etc, I have met well over a hundred dedicated English students. Some of them are unforgettable, but others fade into namelessness when the new cycle starts (12 week class cycles). I recognize their faces as having been in my class, but I can't quite put a name on the face.
The worst is when I see the students out and about and nowhere near the school, so my brain can't sort them by their class time or level. I met a student on the bridge to Solano today coming back from her high school, and though we had a nice conversation, I still don't know if it was Jessica or Veronica. I'm pretty sure she's Jessica. I think. Definitely a Saturday morning student ...
Still, even if I don't always have a ready name to put to the face, it is nice to be able to recognize people on the streets of Cuenca who are not my fellow foreigners. This is a definite benefit of teaching - you have a recognized connection to the society, and get to feel more at home in the culture. Also, the students definitely know you, so it makes for those nice moments that you would have in a small neighborhood, stopping and chatting, even in the middle of Cuenca's bustling byways.
Happy Teacher's Day, indeed!
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