A Taste Of India In Cuenca

Once upon a time, there was a furniture store on the corner of Benigno Malo and Calle Larga. Then there was no furniture shop and just a small paper sign announcing that it had moved. And then there was a makeover.

Painters descended like a rabid pack of rainbow-makers. Buzz saws whirred. Purple took over the ceiling. The back wall went bright orange. An electric green surrounded the windows that were already struggling to adapt to their new onion dome frames.

Under the purple ceiling, a tented canopy of beaded and sparkling fabrics pitched itself. Semi-sheer sari scarves ran away from their owners to hang on the walls. A plasma screen TV came to life on the back wall, pumping out the best of Bollywood circa 1982. Ladies and Gentlemen, welcome to the Taj Mahal!

I'll confess that my first meal here was an accident. They'd left a door ajar during the last week of construction and like any good neighborhood snoop I poked my nose in to ask when they were going to be open. A nice man came and escorted my friend and I to a booth, insisting, "We are open now! Sit, sit, eat!"

Um, okay. That is a table saw being operated next to the chef, right? Clearly not important.

They bring us menus, but this is apparently just practice for the real opening night, since all they have are shawarma's (the Indian version of a gyro) and Coca-Cola. It's surprisingly delicious, considering the circumstances. The real opening day is going to be Thursday and they promise a full menu.

We make plans to test that promise, because to be perfectly honest, the "ethnic" food in Cuenca kind of stinks. There's no Thai takeout, Italian food means pasta + pizza, and spicy dishes exist only in an alternative universe I've not yet discovered. Thus, we are full prepared to be utterly disappointed by our Thursday night India feast.

Fast-forward to Saturday. I'm scratching out the notes that will become this blog post while waiting for $20 worth of $1.50 & $3.00 Indian snacks and entrees to be prepared. (I think someone is walking to India and back to get the spices. This is the only reasonable explanation for the length of the wait. Well, that and the number of items I've just ordered.) I've been sent by the gods of hungry people to "Get more samosa," "Make sure you pick up some of that bread," and "See if the other Aloo dishes are as good as the first one." The taste report:

• Veggie samosas were voted to be slightly better than the chicken samosas. Get one of each anyway.
• The Aloo Palak is richly spiced and delicious, but the Aloo Mutter is better.
• Chicken Biryani beats Chicken Korma.
  
• Real chai tea!!!! (after gallons of te nacional - aka the local swill - my mouth is euphoric)
• Naan Saada is where it's at for the bread.

When you walk in, be prepared to roll out! The portion sizes were generous, and even the takeout was more than plenty. Frankly, as far as the taste buds are concerned, this is the best transformation that has ever happened to a furniture store!

Cuenca's Hot Water Disappointment

Anyone who knows me well knows that I have a thing for showers. I LOVE THEM. Long, hot showers are somewhat critical to taking me out of zombie state and into a functional state in the morning. They're relaxing. They're good for thinking. Opera is more fun in the shower. And, as an aside, showers keep me clean.

Cold showers, on the other hand, are the worst things in the world. Nothing makes me more likely to use my worst grown up words, get all grumpy, and start hating on the universe than a cold shower. Woe betide anyone who gives me any excuse at all to be angry with them after I've had a cold shower, because it's going to feel like World War III just broke out.

My Personality After A Cold Shower

So, to the plumbers and electricians and architects of Cuenca, if you as a group don't start engineering better showers in this town, I'm going to hit you with something. Repeatedly.

At the moment, it seems as though every place I've ever taken a shower here {3 apartments + 2 guest showers} and everyone I've talked to has agreed that for the most part, there are three water temperatures available in Cuenca:

• Arctic
• Tepid
• Scalding

Most water heater systems are gas powered, making the problem one of both heat source and pressure. On one hand, in theory, the hot water should never run out since it is continually heated as it is piped in. In practice, you have to get the water pressure just right to maximize the heating power of the gas flame. Too much and its arctic. Too little and its scalding. In the middle and . . . oh, let's face it. I spend 10 minutes a morning standing out of the spray, fiddling with the water, trying to get it to somewhere in the middle and scowling the entire time.

As a means of getting around the acknowledged problem with the gas heated showers, some systems use electric shower heads. Yes, all my North American readers, you read that right. Electric shower heads.

Scary Electric Shower Example #1

Scary Electric Shower Example #2



Thumbs Down Added By Actual User

Install these puppies the wrong way, and you'll get a shower experience you'll never forget. I had one in my second apartment, and let me tell you, fearing for my life cut into my shower time considerably. I also wore rubber flip flops to shower in religiously, just in case.

These death traps appear throughout Latin and South America. According to the Southern Baptist Missionary I talked to Tuesday, in Guatemala they are known as "Widowmakers" which seems about right. I'll never have one again.

The worst part of them, of course, is they still don't give consistently hot water, either. And yet there they are . . . in use . . . creating a whole legion of people with stories about "that time the shower caught on fire" or "the time I fried myself." Good times, people, good times.

It is a good way to distinguish yourself as an in-the-know type when looking for apartments here, though. Green out of towners ask about square footage and bedrooms. Second time around types and seasoned locals? We're asking about the hot water!

A Fiery Morning In Cuenca

Came out of the house and up the road this morning to discover a house in the neighborhood on fire. I was out and about on the way to settle into watch the finals for the World Cup at the Inca Lounge when I noticed the fire.

It looked terrible. A twisting fat finger of flame was rolling up into the sky, framed by billows of black smoke and overlaid with the sounds of people yelling. I was with my friend Ben and we both took off for the fire, he much faster than I given my lifetime commitment to wearing shoes not suited for running anywhere.

By the time I hustled up to the top of the hill near the house, several things were clear:

--It had been raining a lot lately, so the surrounding area was fairly well protected

--Nobody was still in the house and everyone was okay

--The Fire Department was on the way, but the bucket brigade was a pack of all-stars. The back of the house was the center of the fire, and anyone with a clear shot, bucket, or hose was tossing water on it.

--Cement construction keeps things contained.

In just a few minutes the fire was a lot less than it had been, and with the sirens closing in we took off. Still, the memory will stick with me for a while. The fire started with the gas in the kitchen - I guess they were changing the cooking canisters {no central gas here} and something sparked. I'll be tip-toeing around the stove tops for a while!

Alaska . . . With No Camera, Naturally

Well, I have finally come back from Alaska, with nothing photo-wise to show for myself.

And here I thought I was being so clever!

I'd been to my cousin's wedding and showed up with a camera without a battery charger. Thus, I made sure that I had a battery charger when I went to Alaska.

The camera I left in the car. In my parent's garage. Because, you know, it was happy there.

I was not so happy to be without it, although I did have a great time on the trip. If you want to know what Alaska looks like, call me. I'll be happy to tell you what I saw, even if I'll never be able to show you.

In other news . . . 9 days to Ecuador Part II . . . packing nightmare commences in 3 . . 2 . . oh wait, it's already here!

Why Ecuador and Why Cuenca?

I've had many people ask me over the last few weeks and months "Why Ecuador?" and its natural follow-up, "Why Cuenca?" I imagine that this will only intensify since I am planning to go back later this summer.

The short answer for me is that it is affordable, warm enough, and full of people with whom I get along. There is also the lovely Kookaburra Cafe, Bar Inca, and the Tutto Freddo that all have food I very much enjoy.

However, I am not the only one who is a fan of Ecuador at the moment. International Living's 2010 Quality of Life Index rated Ecuador as #3 in the world for best climate. Cuenca, my city of choice, is listed as one of the easiest cities in the world in which to retire (although thank goodness it isn't chock full of retirees!) There are several younger expats in the city, keeping it from being a glorified retirement village.

Other fan worthy facts about Cuenca and Ecuador include:

• The water in Cuenca is one of the cleanest in South America. You drink straight from the tap with no problems.
• They use the US dollar (which has its pros and cons on a macroeconomic scale, but sure makes life easier on the ground!)
• People are friendly (muy amable) and the country is very navigable
• Did I mention there's no snow? I like that part A LOT!

Thus, for me, "Why Ecuador?" boils down to my corner of the country offering me good company, good food, and an affordable price of living. I can make fan lists like the above for more justification, but there's just a feeling on the ground that makes me happy to be choosing Ecuador at the moment. Will it be a permanent choice? Who knows! There's a whole world out there and I'm a chronic nomad. However, it is the choice for now. . .

Cinnamon Roll Sadness

One of the things that I frequently forget about Cuenca is how high the city really is above sea level. At 8,200 feet, altitude is an important factor to remember.

Especially when you're cooking.

I recently attempted to make cinnamon rolls, craving a taste of home. Unfortunately, no one in the kitchen with me remembered that yeast reacts differently at high altitudes. If you are cooking with yeast, you are supposed to take out one teaspoon of sugar for each cup in the recipe, and shorten up the leavening time by 15 - 20 minutes.

Oops?

The recipe can also be used to make dinner rolls, if you let the dough rise twice. . . or let it rise the full time limit at 8,200 feet. Instead of cinnamon rolls, I ended up with sweet dinner rolls sitting in cinna-goo. Edible, but definitely not what I wanted!

My First Motorcycle Ride In Ecuador

I just survived my first motorcycle ride in Ecuador.

Actually, I should say I just ENJOYED my first motorcycle ride in Ecuador. And the bike was, technically, a scooter.

The Yahama Zuma Scooter

The ride was one of those very happy Ecuadorian accidents that happen. My friend and I had just stopped by to say hello to our friends at Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental. It's a mountain bike, scooter, dirt bike, and motorcycle rental shop that they just opened up last week, so while we were in the neighborhood we thought we would stop by and see how they were doing.

When we got there, Court, one of the owners, was just closing up shop. His enthusiasm for bikes is contagious, and he loves to share what he knows with people. Which may explain how 10 minutes later I was perched on the back of the bike above, heading off into Cuencan traffic in rush hour.

Um. . . whee?

After the first five minutes, when I wondered if we were going to die since we launched right into one of the busiest roundabouts in town, I settled down into the sheer awesomeness of zipping through the streets. We stopped off at the Supermaxi for dinner supplies and then headed out to find home.

Remarkably, we didn't even get lost once! Cuenca is laid out in a general grid, especially around the Centro, which is the historic downtown. We went through the Centro, across Avenida de las Americas (one of the biggest streets in Cuenca) and up and down the hills to my friend's house without incident. We only really got crowded by a driver once, in the turn lane on Avenida de las Americas, and other than that the drivers were really pretty polite and good about sharing the roads even on the roundabouts.

All in all, it was a super fun ride. The scooter was an automatic, so it was really easy to steer once Court showed us what to do, and even as night fell we could see perfectly well. Definitely going to have to try that again!

Fighting A Cold In Cuenca

The dry rainy season in Cuenca has taken a turn for the wet, and my sinuses have taken a turn for the worst!

Despite having escaped the Carnival madness with only one head to toe soaking, I still have managed to catch a cold as the weather has shifted. The regular afternoon rains have resumed with some truly spectacular window-rattling thunder. In fact, on Monday we even had hail, which is pretty rare here.

Dear Lousy Weather: Please stop, I hate you!

Unlike me, the locals are very excited by all the rain. Dry conditions earlier in the year had led to rationing of power, with the municipal power out 2 - 4 hours daily to relieve stress on the hydroelectric systems. A lot of people supplemented with gas, which is what is used to power hot water systems and stoves here, but since the timing was never really clear, your lights and refrigerator could be out at weird times.

It was a monster pain in the rear, so torrential downpours have a smile on the locals' soaked faces. The cabbies have also been enjoying it, as they add a dollar or two on your fare for driving you around in the bucketing rain. It's not a huge deal, since you can still get across town for $5 or less, but it's still a bit of a pain.

Anyway, in some attempts to counteract the sniffle inducing weather, a group of us decided to venture up to little Banos, the thermal springs spa zone of Cuenca. It marked my first time riding a bus in Cuenca, which was kind of an adventure for me. Since the bus is only 25 cents a ride here, my friends were shocked I hadn't tried it before. Living downtown I walk to most things, so really hadn't had the opportunity before.

Banos was a good idea but a lousy experience. Going on a Sunday was dumb, for two reasons. One, the pools were really crowded, since no one had school or work. Secondly, the hot springs pools are cleaned on Wednesday nights and Sunday nights. This makes Sunday afternoons a little gross to my prissy American self. I didn't handle the crowd well with the murky water. Yes, I know thermal springs are murky naturally, but I have to believe that the little kid eating his chocolate popsicle in the kids' end of the pool didn't help!

Since then, the sniffles have not abated. I have a totally new appreciation for lotion enhanced Kleenex, since it is completely unavailable here in Cuenca and I have a red nose to rival Rudolph's! Drinking lots of 100% natural lemonades (70 cents - $1 a glass) and organic fresh squeezed orange juice (80 cents to $1.60 a glass) to try and give my body the ammunition to fight back. Really hope that it clears up by the weekend--planning some birthday outings and I definitely don't want to look like a snot nosed monster in my 30th birthday pictures!

Prices In Cuenca Ecuador, Part 1

I did some shopping and baking this weekend, and thought I would share a few notes on the prices for goods and transportation here in Cuenca. Some things in Ecuador are cheaper than they are back home, while others are more expensive. See what you think of these 10 price comparison points:

1. Bus Trip: 25 cents
2. Optifree Express Contact Solution: $12.97 (Note that contact solution is not sold in supermarkets or big box stores. Nor is it sold at optometrists offices. Instead, it is sold at pharmacies, and kept behind the counter. Optifree and CIBAvision are the two brands that are sold here in Cuenca.)
3. 400,000 volt taser: $38 (I didn't buy this, a friend did. No ID required.)
4. Jif Creamy Peanut Butter: $5.01 (small jar)
5. Ginger Root: 83 cents for half a pound
6. Milk (1 liter): 80 cents
7. Lemons: 35 cents for two big ones
8. 10" Wood-fired pizza with ham, cheese, mushroom, green pepper, and bacon: $4.72
9. 8 ounces of fresh squeezed pineapple juice: 70 cents at the sit down restaurant
10. 3 pairs of ankle socks at the Tia (a supermarket): $1.59

Thoughts? Reactions? Let me know other things you'd like to know the prices of here in Cuenca and I can do some additional research!

Andes Style Weight Loss

Losing weight at high altitudes isn't just a figment of my imagination. Several of the locals I have chatted with have mentioned that it is easy to lose weight up here in Cuenca. Theories have ranged from the organic nature of the local food to the absence of weaknesses like McDonald's and Dairy Queen.

However, researchers in Germany have now proven that a metabolism bump occurs when you spend time at high altitudes. This propels weight loss, and the phenomenon is also coupled with a natural decrease in appetites at high altitudes caused by changes in your leptin levels (leptin controls the hunger impulse).

To follow up, the researchers also noted that the subjects in their study were more active when they returned to their natural elevation. This is attributed to the altitude training effect, which is that when you hit a lower elevation, it's easier for your body to function, so you feel more fit and can be more active with ease.

Basically, it means that spending 9 weeks up in Cuenca is the best post-holiday diet ever. I'm eating lots of great food, but my body is burning through the calories faster. I've noticed a few pounds gone from my belly and arms, although my writers cushion is stubbornly retaining its shape. Still, it is nice to know that there are scientifically proven benefits to spending time here!

Lucas And The Ghosts

Yesterday we went to one of Cuenca's more interesting theater destinations, the Prohibido Centro Cultural. It's a really unique venue, with an interior decor that is a bit other-wordly. Think the costume crew from Alien meets Hieronymus Bosch meets the Grateful Dead and you'll be close.

For the stunning entrance price of $2.50 (includes popcorn), we got to see an alternative puppet show called Lucas y Las Fantasmas (Lucas and the Ghosts):

The story is told with two live actors playing the parts of the ghosts, Mario y Carnelio, and through the eyes of Lucas, a full puppet of whom Tim Burton would be proud:

The basic plot is that Lucas is terrorized by these two ghosts, although his parents don't believe in ghosts. Let to deal with them alone, he has to face down their hunger for child flesh (illustrated with a song about all the ways they will cook and eat him) and convince them to help themselves toward the light. To get to the light, they have to solve the problems in their lives that left them as ghosts. A series of puppets, all controlled by the two actors playing the ghosts, portray lost loves, other ghosts, and eventually, the ghost women who replace the lost loves of Mario and Carnelio.

The thing was in Spanish, which strained my abilities, but it was still easy to follow. Basically a comedy despite the dark themes, there was a lot of physical humor, plays on worlds, and incorporated songs to make the play entertaining. Although it ran to 90 minutes, it felt more like 30 minutes, tops!

Some of the more comical moments were with the attempts by the ghosts to rectify their previous errors. Mario, a plumber, ends up flooding the mall. Carnelio discovers his lost love isn't dead . . . but she is old and deaf. When he tries to tell her he wants to show her his love (amo) she doesn't hear correctly and thinks he wants to flash her his ass (ano) so she beats him up and leaves him again in misery.

It does end with a happily ever after, as the two ghosts find two murdered women who prove to be their undead soulmates. They also work out a deal with Lucas, mocked by his parents as phobic, to scare Mommy and Daddy. The play cuts out with a peacefully sleeping Lucas as the two ghosts chase his parents all over the house.

The Prohibido Centro Cultural has a museum portion that is open daily, and also has a Facebook page with their schedule of events. Plays weekly at 8 pm, and while I may not catch them all, it certainly looks like an interesting season!